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A Drizzly Afternoon in Ginza

I take leave of a friend of mine who goes to buy shoe polish at Washington. When I get to S-do, Komimasa Tanaka comes by, sheltered under an umbrella shared with his young girlfriend.

This is from Shotaro Ikenami’s Ginza Journal (Shincho Bunko Paperback).

My Ginza Journal, on the other hand, goes like this:

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Before Dawn in Front of Taimei Elementary School
It’s early morning, Sunday, Ginza. A garbage truck and a few taxis are stirring, but little else. We’re getting ready for a photo shoot. The model is in the production bus getting her makeup done and her hair blown and styled. The stylist is hemming pants and ironing. The cameraman is outside taking test shots repeatedly. With nothing better to do, the editor—me—is stuffing himself with catered rice balls while poring over the plans for the shoot, for a pretense of seriousness, in fact.

The shoot ends at 11:00 a.m. We disperse. I down a pork cutlet at A-kebono and buy a few seasonable envelopes at K-kyodo and pipe tobacco at K-sui. Then, I stop by GINZA SIX. That’s my Ginza routine.

At GINZA SIX, I first climb to the sixth floor to use the beautiful restroom. I stop briefly at a smoking area and hang out at Tsutaya Books for nearly an hour, taking my time browsing and reading before choosing a book that will nourish me tomorrow.

My next destination is Belstaff on the third floor.

If you’re male, this is a brand you’ll find irresistible. Belstaff is a brand loved by men who love the cool nonchalance of men like Steven McQueen, Che Guevara, David Beckham. I’m troubled by the conviction donning one of these jackets will transform me into Steve McQueen.

The Belstaff Trialmaster jacket (88,000 yen; all prices listed before tax), introduced in 1948 and sold even today, is for men a standard-among-standards, like Levi’s 501 jeans, Converse All Stars, and Edward Green’s Chelsea shoes. A man lacking this jacket could scarcely be regarded a fashion-lover.

All the same—just between us—I don’t actually own one. So every time I’m at GINZA SIX, I come here, which has many of the jackets in stock, and contemplate the idea of buying one. Should I go with black or navy? Size 46 or 48? A different answer comes to me each time I try one on.

As I dither in this way, a jacket in the new Origins collection (96,000 yen) catches my eyes. The design is in the spirit of the Trialmaster, but with up-to-the-minute materials. The jacket is light, water repellent, and quick-drying. The inner pocket has a smartphone holder; no doubt this jacket is convenient.

I put it on. Regarding myself in the mirror, I think, if you really want to be a modern-day Steve McQueen, this might just be the one… At the same time, I hear my other self whispering in my ear: “No, if you’re talking Belstaff , you have to get the waxed cotton, the real deal, first!” I want them all. Good heavens! I can’t come to a decision today, either.

I’ve recently been generously paid for a job from six months back, so to go home empty-handed would sound a discordant note. It’s fine, I guess, but the decision leaves me feeling hollow. I think I’ll buy something before heading home.

With this in mind, I make my way to Gente di Mare, a mixed-label boutique.

The store’s name means People of the Sea. The clothing here looks perfect for a café in Portofino, a restaurant in Naples, or a cruise on the Mediterranean. In other words, no shorts, tank tops, or flip flops, but a wide range of linen shirts and cotton jackets like the one here in the photo (52,000 yen).

Circolo 1901 intrigues me. This famous Italian brand makes sophisticated tailored jackets from sweatshirt fabrics. They’ve traditionally been simple single-breasted navy blue jackets, but this season they offer a double-breasted version with metal buttons (55,000 yen). The comfort is casual-perfect, but the double-breasted styling and metal buttons give it a classic look. The combination of style and comfort blows me away.

I love safari jackets. Here I’ve found a great one (55,000 yen)! This jacket is from Giannetto, a South Italy shirt brand. A safari jacket from a shirt-maker is bound to be as comfortable as a shirt. But the decorative back flaps and patch pockets of the chest and the waist give it a look that goes well beyond a shirt. The store staff is wearing one; it strikes the perfect note. The price, too, is around that of a good shirt, so not so hard on the wallet.

As I’m reaching into my pocket to take out my wallet, my smartphone rings. I look and see one text message has arrived. It’s from my wife. “You said you’d be home around lunch. How’s it going? Your two kids can’t wait for you to get home and take them out to play.” The shoot was going to be over before noon, so I planned to take them to the park later. I’ve forgotten I told my family this last night. It’s already 2:30.

This is probably true with all families, but there are many times when the husband can’t really look his wife in the eyes, even if he hasn’t really erred in some specific way. I immediately reply: “The shoot’s taken a bit longer than anticipated, but it’s almost done. Home soon!” Reluctantly I part with the safari jacket.

So I guess it’s time to head home. Maybe I should buy a little something to bring back as an offering in apology.

This is the second below ground floor, the Food Floor, and it’s really fun, filled with specialty products from all over Japan. I can’t stop drooling.

I walk around a little and, hey, they have an Oginoya! In the summer when I was a young man, on the way home from Karuizawa, I’d buy this boiled rice bowl, a local popular take-out. My girlfriend would sit by me in the passenger seat. Where she is now? I find myself wondering. As I’m thinking this, I’m trembling at the miracle of being able to enjoy in Ginza this harmony of boiled rice soaked with dashi from Rijiri kelp and secret soup stock, topped with chicken, bamboo shoots, quail eggs, chestnuts, and apricots. I gulp.

A few years ago, on a visit to Tomioka Silk Mill for a shoot, I found an Oginoya there, too. I bought some and brought them home. It was a big hit with the family. Maybe this is how I can atone for the rescheduled park outing and return to the good graces of my family.

The rice is served in customary ceramic Mashiko-ware bowls, with the option of paper containers. I, of course, go with the former. These bowls can be reused as accessory holders, ashtrays, or what have you. Plus there’s an appealing plastic container filled with tsukemono pickles one could repurpose as a pill case. Who knew this take-out rice bowl could be so reusable and ethical?

Japanese cities in general, not just Tokyo, are gradually becoming more standardized. But Ginza retains the feel of the Showa era I love. I’m delighted Ginza offers new places like GINZA SIX that provides luxurious yet unpretentious comfort. I’m mesmerized by Oginoya’s steak bento with Joshu beef. Belstaff is going to tell me to make up my mind already! I want to wear a safari shirt and go on a trip. Much as I’d love to stop by, this time, I must forgo Yakiniku Sansui. And so forth…I can’t get enough of GINZA SIX.

Text:Takashi Ogiyama　Photos:Yuichi Sugita　Edit:Yuka Okada